Moscow has a very efficient Metro system. I never wait more than a few minutes for a train, it is fast and relatively cheap--possibly the best deal in an exorbitantly expensive city.
The Moscow Metro is second only to the
Tokyo system in average number of passengers served, it has 172 stations and moves an average of 7 million passengers a day—having stood for more than 15 minutes in a scrum trying to get up an escalator I really believe this is true. It is not as high-tech or fashionable as the
Tokyo system, but the trains are quite efficient. Someday, I’ll write my book about how you can interpolate the attitudes of a city based on the methods of the mass transportation.
But for now, let me provide some explanations before I come back to
the Moscow Metro.
Let’s take the metro system of Washington, D.C. This is an uptight and conservative (in fashion and attitude—not only politics) city and the architecture and structure of the Metro reflects this. The D.C. Metro always seems to me to have been built by 1960’s Communist designers who had extra concrete slabs left over from some forgotten city in Siberia and sent them to D.C. as a goodwill gesture. It wins hands down for the most clearly boring, ugly, and staid metro of a major city in the world—even the Tube in London has a bit more character and to get beat by the Brit’s in terms of uptight conservative architecture takes some work. Also like the business of the city—politics—the Metro doesn’t run very efficiently. Some line is always under constant repair and the time between trains seems to increase in direct correspondence with the severity of the weather as you wait outside. Like the politicians it has an attitude of, “hey, we’ll get you there when we feel like it, you have to trust us that everything is being done in your interest for your safety. So quit your complaining and wait!”
Or take another example from the U.S.—the New York City Subway. It is loud, dirty, confusing, old, and yet reasonably efficient and fast. Like the city it says, “I’m brash and in your face, so deal with it”, there is nothing subtle about it. No high-tech smooth Euro trains here. It’s old fashioned and it works pretty well. A bit like the city, it's a bit rough around the edges, but in the end New York City will always get it done. It always does.
The pricing and payment system also reflects attitudes toward their citizens. In New York and D.C., you buy a card, pass it through or over a reader and the barrier or turnstile opens. In Italy, the relaxed Italians have no gates, no turnstiles and no barriers that I have ever seen on the subway in Rome. You buy a ticket that gives you travel within a fixed amount of time, you get it punched as you get on to start the clock and then you can ride any public transport (buses, trams, etc.) within that time. Random stops and checks and severe fines for violating apparently are enough to have everyone buy their tickets. I was amazed at the process. The trust factor in having responsible citizens buy their tickets is amazing. All of which leads me back to the Moscow Metro.
What was cruelly and harshly brought to my attention earlier this week is the punitive nature of the system. Rather than the U.S. system of pay and a gate opens or the high trust Italian system of pay and no gates, Moscow has a “if you don’t pay you will get slammed by large iron gates” system. You buy a pass and walk between two metal barriers. If for some reason it didn’t read your card (as happened to me) or if you are trying not to pay, big metal gates slam shut on you. They are timed to catch you perfectly in mid-stride. I have bruises on my arm and hips to attest to the severity of the reminder. I now have this fear every time I use the metro (about 3x’s a day) that I’m going to be caught again in the metal pincers although I am a very law abiding citizen who carefully paid full price for a monthly pass.
It is a severely punitive system designed to make even those that are following the law extremely nervous and fearful. It appears to be quite reflective of the Russian government’s attitude towards individuals and the population in general. Having law abiding citizens in constant fear of judgment and persecution is a seen as a beneficial state of affairs.